FAQ - Adopting

There are no time limits on animals awaiting adoption from the Minnesota Valley Humane Society.

Rabbits usually get along with cats, guinea pigs and well-behaved dogs. In fact, many times, the rabbits will end up bossing the resident animals around. The ideal way to introduce the rabbit would be to confine or leash the dog/cat and let the rabbit investigate at its own pace. Interactions between rabbits and other pets should always be supervised.

Rabbits are very territorial and do not easily welcome a newcomer. The most important element of creating a successful pair is to start with two neutered/spayed rabbits. You need to expect a transition period where each rabbit is maintained separately, while they get to know each other. The basic process of introducing two rabbits involves a neutral territory (someplace neither rabbit has been before), small amounts of time and close supervision. Normal behaviors for introductions include:

• Love at first sight. If this occurs, you can try them in the space they're going to live in. If it's still good, then they're fine, you have nothing else to do.
• Tentative friendship: If this occurs, just watch them when they're together, keep them separate when you're not around, and if no fighting occurs, they'll eventually become friends.
• Amorous behavior: If the (neutered) male mounts the female and the female permits it, this is usually a sign that the relationship will go well. If she does mind and runs, it is still not usually a problem. If she minds and becomes aggressive towards him, then you must prepare for a lengthier introduction period.
• One chasing, one running. If this occurs, just make sure the one running doesn't fight back and doesn't get hurt. If neither of these things occurs, then just watch and wait. If one gets hurt, then separate them and go slower and if one fights back, then you must prepare for a lengthier introduction period.
• Fighting. When two rabbits fight, then you must prepare for a lengthy introduction period.

Work with your rabbits every day, for at least twenty minutes or so a day, and when you're not working with them, keep them in eye contact of each other. Start with extreme scenarios and gradually move to less extreme. Do one extreme and one less extreme every day. The more often
you work with them, the quicker the progress.

Start the introduction on neutral ground such as a park or street that is not on your dog’s walking route. Have someone else take your dog and you can meet them with the new dog at an assigned spot. Let the dogs greet and sniff each other. If this is successful, you may be ready for a leash walk on the home front. The dogs must be supervised and rewarded for good behavior as they are getting to know each other. Be careful so that there are no items such as food bowls, special toys, or rawhides laying around that might provoke a fight. You should probably feed them separately where they can’t see each other as well. They must establish a relationship between themselves and this may go smoothly or not so smoothly depending on the individual dogs. Do not mix an old, geriatric dog with a puppy. It is too hard on both dogs. For more detailed information, see our handouts on Canine Rivalry and Introducing a New Dog Into Your Household.

There is no correct answer for this question as there are advantages and disadvantages to either choice. Puppies are a lot of work and need to be potty trained and taught manners. Puppies have a lot more energy than older dogs and it may be an exhausting task to keep your puppy exercised and out of trouble. Puppies are also adorable creatures who are little blank slates and you get to teach them about the big world. You help form their personality as they grow and that can be a fun and rewarding experience. A puppy who has been exposed to many opportunities and many children early on is usually well-adjusted and a joy to be around.

An adult dog (3 years old or older) has gotten all that puppy stuff out of his system. He may be more relaxed if he is older, may already be fully or partially housetrained and may have good manner. You may also inherit a problem or two from inappropriate handling or training in a previous home. His personality is more obvious than a puppy’s and you probably already know his likes and dislikes.

As you can see, there is no right answer here. Simply know what you want out of your new canine companion before you get him.

Start the introduction before you bring the baby home from the hospital. Bring home blankets that your baby has slept in. Wear lotion on your hands that you will use for your baby. Remember, scent is extremely important to cats. You can also tape record your baby crying and play it in your house. When you bring your baby home, let your cat smell him or her. Make sure you praise your cat with treats and lots of attention. Always use common sense and don't leave your cat alone with your baby, or any young children.

The answer to this question varies considerably depending on the personalities of the cats. Example: If you have a very shy cat, it's best not to get another that is aggressive. Your shy cat will feel threatened and hide. Try to match the personalities of the cats. The highest incidence of urine marking or spraying comes with bringing an adult female cat into a household with an adult male cat. The male may react by spraying.

The easiest answer to this question is that you know what you're getting when you adopt an older cat. When you adopt a kitten, you have no idea what his / her personality will be. With an older cat, you will be able to tell if he's a snuggler, whether he's playful, if he likes to be held, etc.

The first thing we suggest about bringing another cat into your house is that you have it feline leukemia tested before introducing him to your existing cat(s). When you are sure your new cat has tested negative for feline leukemia, shut him in an extra room along with his litter, food and water for at least a week or two. (This room will become a "safe spot" for your new cat. Anytime he gets spooked in the future, he'll return to this room for comfort). While your new cat is getting adjusted to his new surroundings, it allows your existing cat to smell his new friend under the door. After about 3-4 days, open the door and let your cats see each other, but don't let them get close. Use a screen or baby gate so they can view each other safely. In another day or two, open the door again and let them get closer. Continue this process… It is very important that you give both cats equal attention throughout the process. Some cats will adjust very quickly and get along fine while others will take much longer. Some cats will never become buddies; they will only tolerate each other's existence.