FAQ - Rabbit Behavior

Rabbits usually get along with cats, guinea pigs and well-behaved dogs. In fact, many times, the rabbits will end up bossing the resident animals around. The ideal way to introduce the rabbit would be to confine or leash the dog/cat and let the rabbit investigate at its own pace. Interactions between rabbits and other pets should always be supervised.

Rabbits are very territorial and do not easily welcome a newcomer. The most important element of creating a successful pair is to start with two neutered/spayed rabbits. You need to expect a transition period where each rabbit is maintained separately, while they get to know each other. The basic process of introducing two rabbits involves a neutral territory (someplace neither rabbit has been before), small amounts of time and close supervision. Normal behaviors for introductions include:

• Love at first sight. If this occurs, you can try them in the space they're going to live in. If it's still good, then they're fine, you have nothing else to do.
• Tentative friendship: If this occurs, just watch them when they're together, keep them separate when you're not around, and if no fighting occurs, they'll eventually become friends.
• Amorous behavior: If the (neutered) male mounts the female and the female permits it, this is usually a sign that the relationship will go well. If she does mind and runs, it is still not usually a problem. If she minds and becomes aggressive towards him, then you must prepare for a lengthier introduction period.
• One chasing, one running. If this occurs, just make sure the one running doesn't fight back and doesn't get hurt. If neither of these things occurs, then just watch and wait. If one gets hurt, then separate them and go slower and if one fights back, then you must prepare for a lengthier introduction period.
• Fighting. When two rabbits fight, then you must prepare for a lengthy introduction period.

Work with your rabbits every day, for at least twenty minutes or so a day, and when you're not working with them, keep them in eye contact of each other. Start with extreme scenarios and gradually move to less extreme. Do one extreme and one less extreme every day. The more often
you work with them, the quicker the progress.

The basic approach is pretty simple. Begin by restricting your rabbit to a small space, like their cage, for the first week or so. Be sure to place at least one litterbox in a back corner of this space. During the week, your rabbit will choose a corner for their “bathroom” area. If that isn’t where you originally placed the litterbox, simply relocate the box to the rabbit’s selected area. In a few days, the rabbit will associate the litterbox with their bathroom. At this point, gradually provide more run space for your rabbit. Be sure to supervise them carefully during this time, so any accidents can be corrected immediately by putting the rabbit back in their litterbox. Start with small amounts of space & time and gradually increase both as your rabbit proves their good habits. Reinforce consistently any accidents. If your rabbit will have access to more than one room of the house, it is a good idea to add more litterboxes as their space continues to grow. Eventually, your rabbit will demonstrate how many litterboxes are needed for the size of space they have.

Most important factor for success is having your rabbit spayed/neutered. This will reduce or eliminate their hormonal urge to mark their territory. Also, older rabbits are easier to train than younger rabbits. Young rabbits do not have the control and ability to learn that develops from age. If you have a rabbit less than 6 months, be patient & persistent. Older rabbits will usually learn in a matter of a few weeks.

Many people want to start with a young rabbit, but adults (1 year or older) are often easier to start with. Rabbits under a year are still “growing up” – full of rambunctious energy, learning about their world through more frequent chewing/digging, and dealing with the hormones of rabbit adolescence. Adult rabbits are easier to litter train, learn appropriate behavior faster and are still very playful & enjoyable.

Another consideration is the size of a rabbit. While breed itself is not necessarily a factor, smaller rabbits tend to be more active and sometimes even skittish. Meanwhile, many larger rabbits tend to be more easy-going and are often easier to handle, despite their size. Larger rabbits are recommended for homes with children because of these tendencies and because it is less likely the child will attempt to pick up the rabbit, possibly hurting either the rabbit or themselves.

Cats & dogs are both predators, while rabbits are prey animals. Because of this fundamental difference, there are a few important points to keep in mind. First, rabbits mask illness, making it difficult to detect. Consequently, their caretakers must pay close attention to their normal behavior & act on even subtle changes. Cats & dogs tend to investigate unknown noises, while rabbits tent to prefer places that are generally quieter and will freeze or run away from unknown noises. As prey animals, rabbits generally do not enjoy being held, as their instincts tell them they have been “captured.” And finally, rabbits survive by knowing their environment very, very well. It is very stressful for them when their environment is changed, which can lead to illness.

Another unique trait of rabbits is that breed has no bearing on personality. You could easily find five rabbits of the same breed that have five distinctly different personalities, or five similar personalities in five different breeds. So, take the time to get to know the unique personality of your rabbit, regardless of its appearance.